Tubaq alyawm. It's Arabic for "today's dish" and its presence on the menu is one of many surprises that await eaters – as is the curiosity that some of Australia's sharpest Middle Eastern food is in a converted bus garage in boho-chic North Freo. Don't let the café-esque aesthetic fool you, Propeller is an operation of substance; from the attentive service and thoughtful drinks list to a kitchen that sweats the little things. Sometimes the food is about the familiar cooked with precision: spiced rankin cod entombed in shattering brik pastry, perhaps, or dense orange almond cake with an intense pistachio ice-cream. Other times, it's about getting a crash course in the breadth of Levantine and Maghreb flavours, such as learning that a Tunisian-style tajine maadnous is closer to an omelette than a stew, or that roast Brussels sprouts plus anchovies and pickled eggs is a fine way to win friends with salad.
ABOUT
Chef Kurt Sampson
Price guide $$
Bookings Recommended
Wheelchair access Yes
Price guide $$
Bookings Recommended
Wheelchair access Yes
This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide's reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.