REVIEW
A little smoke goes a long way, but restraint is one of chef Ben Williamson's triumphs at wood-fired-only Agnes. While the menu leans unapologetically meaty and the flavour of the grill put to excellent use with the protein, the brilliant ingredients never taste like they've narrowly escaped a house fire. Instead, stewed leeks and almonds have a fine, clean, acidic balance, perfect with spectacularly tender lamb sweetbreads or slivers of grilled ox heart lifted by gorgeously rounded miso hollandaise. Other dishes, meanwhile – a betel-leaf roll filled with prawn and pork mince; sweet clams with frothy potato velouté and house-made hot sauce; a dessert that successfully teams charred lemon with white chocolate – barely whisper "smoke". The renovated warehouse embraces the feudal firepit spirit, with the black furniture, double-height ceiling and flickering firelight giving off Game of Thrones vibes – albeit with less slaughter and more great wine that embraces old-world classicism and new-world experimentation.
ABOUT
Chef Ben Williamson & Alex Gregg
Price guide $$
Bookings Essential
Wheelchair access Yes
Hours Lunch Fri-Sat; Dinner Tue-Sat
Price guide $$
Bookings Essential
Wheelchair access Yes
Hours Lunch Fri-Sat; Dinner Tue-Sat
This review was written independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide's reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way. To learn more about the process, head over here.
