Alta Trattoria: Restaurant review

It's the small touches – fried capers on the vitello tonnato, the clarity of a broth bobbing with cockerel-stuffed ravioli and pickled mushrooms, the crisp edges of Alta's homage to the focaccia of Italy's north-west – that often nudge chef McKay Wilday's celebration of Piedmontese cuisine towards the sublime. But the struggle can be real at Alta, especially when you're forced to decide between, say, tajarin tossed with an impeccable rabbit ragù or a lemon and chestnut gnocchi. There are many such dilemmas, not least with the superb wine list built on a core of Piedmontese wines surrounded by an expertly assembled, frequently changing chorus of Italian, French and Australian labels. Owned and run by a team of crack industry professionals, Alta is an ode to detail. It's present everywhere – service, lighting, glassware – and underlined by an absolute clarity about what a delightful backstreet trattoria is put on this earth to do.

Alta Trattoria
Italian
Rear, 274 Brunswick St, Fitzroy (enter via Victoria St)
(03) 9417 0526
altatrattoria.com

Chef McKay Wilday
Price guide $$$
Bookings Recommended
Wheelchair access Yes
Open Lunch Sat-Sun; Dinner Mon-Sat