REVIEW
Accessible only by boat or seaplane, Berowra Waters Inn is as close as you can get to dégustation dining on the water without getting wet. Inside this solid sandstone and corrugated-tin pavilion, chef-owner Brian Geraghty effortlessly combines modern techniques with native flavours. Take, for example, a plate of sliced raw kingfish, which is doused in a punchy banksia vinegar and topped with daikon and "capers" made from sea-fennel flower buds. Or the wagyu beef, which is cooked in its own fat and barbecued until meltingly tender, then finished with a fermented uni butter. The playful "Discovery" pairing of strictly Australian low-intervention wines brings the restaurant bang up to date, as does pastry chef Lauren Eldridge, whose fruit-forward creations strike the perfect balance between sweet and sour. Her showstopping rhubarb and Davidson's plum dessert alone is worth the trip across the Hawkesbury River.
ABOUT
Chefs Brian Geraghty & Lauren Eldridge
Price guide $$$$
Bookings Essential
Wheelchair access No
Price guide $$$$
Bookings Essential
Wheelchair access No
This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide's reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way. To learn more about the process, click here.
