REVIEW
What keeps Pasi Petänen's border-crossing bistro top of mind year on year? Perhaps it's the revelatory ravioli, where root-veg and truffle jus surrounds frilly-edged parcels filled with a rich yet restrained boudin blanc. Or thinly sliced plancha-grilled beef, cooked only on one side so it's both rare and charred, dressed with smoked bone marrow vinaigrette. Or those must-try dishes that have been there since day dot: the velvety ox tongue tacos on malty rye tortillas, or the excellent, imaginative potato dumplings with trout-powered XO sauce. Then there's the compelling drinks list that spans large format wines, house-made sodas and a page devoted to digestifs. All the while, Petänen is a reassuringly calm presence in the open kitchen, which adds just the right level of buzz to the slender and smartly appointed room. Everything's just so considered, unbound by rules but tied together with absolute originality – and Sydney is all the richer for it.
ABOUT
Chef Pasi Petänen
Price guide $
Bookings Recommended
Wheelchair access Yes
Open Lunch Sat; Dinner Mon-Sat
Price guide $
Bookings Recommended
Wheelchair access Yes
Open Lunch Sat; Dinner Mon-Sat
This review was written independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide's reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way. To learn more about the process, head over here.
