REVIEW
Could Dier Makr exist anywhere other than Hobart? It's so completely of its place, from the moodily lit rabbit-warren of an entrance (past excellent sister wine bar Lucinda) to the dark timber palette of its Georgian dining room and almost primitive open kitchen – little more than a hibachi and a couple of hot plates – from which magnificent flavours emerge. The set-course menu might include ravioli filled with celeriac cream and exquisite smoked gummy shark bacon lolling in dark, clear mushroom broth with sliced slippery jacks, or grilled skewers of octopus and kipfler potatoes doused in a bright hot sauce, or a perfectly simple apple granita spiked with fennel seeds. Most ingredients come from close by, some (like the apples) within a couple of blocks of the restaurant, while the wine list pulls gems like aged sake and minimal intervention crémant from all points. Refreshingly restrained service seals the deal.
ABOUT
Chef Kobi Ruzicka
Price guide $$$
Bookings Essential
Wheelchair access No
Price guide $$$
Bookings Essential
Wheelchair access No
This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide's reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.
