REVIEW
Is it possible to improve on alt-bistro perfection? Clearly, yes. Etta has gone from strength to super-strength with the arrival of chef Rosheen Kaul, who has cemented star status at this intimate Brunswick East bar and dining room. Mining her mixed-Asian heritage, the snacky menu specialises in flavour broadsides from left field, whether that's wood-grilled skewers of abalone and lardo with a fragrant sprinkle of Kampot pepper, say, or the sweet freshness of raw scallops with nectarine, dragon fruit and Thai basil. Regulars, meanwhile, need not fear that the signature hits (the crisp rice salad with red-curry pork sausage and mussels; the umami bomb of tempura enoki mushrooms, shiitakes and Savoy cabbage) are going anywhere soon. On the floor, owner Hannah Green continues to steer the ship with a molecular understanding of diner whims, ready as ever to quench thirsts with a quiver of interesting lo-fi wines. Vive la evolution.
ABOUT
Chef Rosheen Kaul
Price guide $
Bookings Recommended
Wheelchair access Yes
Open Lunch Sat; Dinner Tue-Sat
Price guide $
Bookings Recommended
Wheelchair access Yes
Open Lunch Sat; Dinner Tue-Sat
This review was written independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide's reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way. To learn more about the process, head over here.
