Restaurant Guide

GOMA Restaurant: Restaurant review

Forget what you know about gallery restaurants. Brisbane's GOMA is a cut above the rest.

REVIEW

Blow-torched Hervey Bay scallops on a half-shell, accessorised with burnt peanut cream and fiery nam jim. Teriyaki veal sweetbread nuggets crumbed in panko dotted with puffs of salt and vinegar rice. Crisp-fleshed Mooloolaba prawns brightened with macadamia nam prik, then napped with creamy tom yum poured at the table. Surprise is the tasty name of the game at this far-from-typical gallery restaurant, which artfully embraces its location in Brisbane's impressive Gallery of Modern Art. Carefully curated ceramics ensure everything arrives as pretty as a picture, a charcoal-hued bowl framing tandoori glazed barramundi to advantage. The tight drinks list squeezes in four Queensland wines, a chance to sip Granite Belt saperavi, or wild ferment pinot, perhaps. Only open lunchtimes, service is aptly up-tempo. A cheesecake using fromage blanc from local camel milk provides a tasty excuse to linger, its creamy richness balanced with tart freeze-dried raspberries, chewy honeycomb chunks sending diners sweetly on their way.

ABOUT

GOMA Restaurant
GOMA, Stanley Pl, South Brisbane, Qld
(07) 3840 7303
qagoma.qld.gov.au
Chefs Douglas Innes-Will & Matt Blackwell
Price guide $$
Bookings Recommended
Wheelchair access Yes
This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide's reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.