Grazing: Restaurant review

With travel limited to our own backyards, escapist daydreams have turned inward; to historic country inns warmed by roaring fireplaces, to local wines and to plates filled with produce pulled from nearby patches. This elusive, agrarian fantasy is manifested in the diminutive town of Gundaroo, where chef Kurt Neumann dispenses comforting dishes constructed with neighbourhood ingredients under the historic tin roof of the 1865 Royal Hotel. Like the character-filled building that once protected travellers from bushrangers, Neumann's fare is warm and homely, yet hints at something thrilling. Lightly grilled oysters topped with miso caramel and beurre noisette; a prawn cavorting in a buttery sauce with peas and clams; or beef cheeks sweetened in Pedro Ximénez then fried until crisp. With a tight list celebrating local Canberra-region winemakers and service suggestive of a family meal, your Grazing experience will leave you thankful for the opportunity to explore the lands a little closer to home.

Grazing
Corner of Cork and Harp Streets, Gundaroo, NSW
(02) 6236 8777
grazing.com.au

Chef Kurt Neumann
Price guide $$$
Bookings Essential
Wheelchair access Yes