REVIEW
Aaron Turner is a fine dining pit master whose elemental vision of cooking yields greatness across a mysterious six-course dégustation menu revealed only in the delivery. Conjuring fire, coals and smoke in the open kitchen, Turner has created one of regional Australia's best restaurants in a prosaic Geelong laneway. His menu, which varies from day to day and even from table to table, is a leap into the unknown, but you could make a trip based purely on the opening snack salvo – emu bresaola, crisp chicken skin with taramasalata or tiny pickled vegetables leaning into their briny crunch – before the ante is upped with an innovative parade of road-less-travelled flavour and texture combinations. Harmonising with the menu, the wine list champions the local and the minimal intervention. Add the unflappable service of maître d' and co-owner Joanna Smith and Igni is the best thing to happen to Geelong since the Cats won the flag in 2011.
ABOUT
Chef Aaron Turner
Price guide $$$$
Bookings Essential
Wheelchair access Yes
Price guide $$$$
Bookings Essential
Wheelchair access Yes
This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide's reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.