REVIEW
Every restaurant seems to be "produce-driven" these days, but Neil Perry's Double Bay flagship delivers on the promise with conviction. Perhaps it's hand-picked blue swimmer crab with bright shreds of green papaya and sweet pork belly. Or carefully diced tuna tartare slicked in punchy gochujang. Line-caught coral trout and a retired dairy cow fillet are each rendered totally delicious by the embers of the wood grill, with XO and red curry butter, respectively, amplifying the pleasure tenfold. Here, it's all about the combination of show-stopping ingredients and pan-Asian flavours – which always enhance rather than overshadow. The room exudes a cool elegance that speaks to intergenerational good times, and exacting wine service delivers the goods regardless of whether you're keeping it low-key or pushing the boat right out over big-ticket Burgundy. Margaret's magic lies in the synthesis of all these elements and in Perry's stopless, sustained relevance.
ABOUT
Chefs Neil Perry & Richard Purdue
Price guide $$
Bookings Recommended
Wheelchair access Yes
Open Lunch Thu-Sun; Dinner Wed-Sun
Price guide $$
Bookings Recommended
Wheelchair access Yes
Open Lunch Thu-Sun; Dinner Wed-Sun
This review was written independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide's reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way. To learn more about the process, head over here.
