Restaurant Guide

Millbrook: Restaurant review

Lunch at Millbrook is saddled with considerable expectations, which only seem to build as you make the hour-long drive to this seachanger's fantasy in the Perth Hills.

REVIEW

Lunch at Millbrook is saddled with considerable expectations, which only seem to build as you make the hour-long drive to this seachanger's fantasy in the Perth Hills. Thankfully, the team is up to the task, from the cellar-door crew that bid you welcome to the cheery waitstaff that patrol the cosy upstairs dining room. The kitchen is also in on the act, highlighting ingredients grown in the property's sprawling garden. Italy is a key influence; scallops get flash-cured in acqua-pazza-like fermented tomato water, while blistered porchetta slices share plate space with braised Calabrian white beans. A delicious frugality is also in effect. Foraged weeds are immortalised in a flaky spanakopita just as windswept mandarins become meringue-crowned curd. Snappy estate wines, like the buy-in, are priced so all can play, although beer side projects are becoming more regular on the drinks list. A lunch (and day trip) to be savoured.

ABOUT

Millbrook Winery
Australian
Old Chestnut Lane, Jarrahdale, WA
(08) 9525 5796
millbrook.wine
Chef: Guy Jeffreys & Justin Wong
Price guide: $
Bookings: Essential
Wheelchair access: Yes
Open Lunch Thu-Mon
This review was written independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide's reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way. To learn more about the process, head over here.