REVIEW
Morks may no longer be the well-kept secret it was when the brothers Ratanakosol took over their parents' restaurant back in 2013, but its relevance and fandom have not waned. This is a place that works smarter and harder, boldly interpreting the cuisines of Thailand and its neighbours with dexterity and first-generation flair. Take the nahm jim spooned over startlingly fresh scallop sashimi – spiked with absinthe for an intriguing liquorice backbeat. Or the brilliant hand-rolled egg noodles, more Bologna than Bangkok, glossed in brown butter and chilli jam, with tomatoes, Thai basil and crackly nuggets of pork stomach. Larb gets thoughtfully re-examined along the way, too, swapping minced meat for utterly tender blocks of beef heel. There's such relaxed surety about it all, from the utilitarian room to the obliging tone on the floor, and the rigorously edited wine list follows suit, confirming the case for less being more. Long may the winning streak continue.
ABOUT
Chef Mork Ratanakosol
Cuisine Thai
Price guide $
Bookings Recommended
Wheelchair access Yes
Open Lunch and dinner Tue-Sat
Cuisine Thai
Price guide $
Bookings Recommended
Wheelchair access Yes
Open Lunch and dinner Tue-Sat
This review was written independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide's reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way. To learn more about the process, head over here.
