Restaurant Guide

Pilloni: Restaurant review

Pilloni's crack team knows just how to celebrate Sardinia in all its glory.

REVIEW

Pilloni's crack team knows just how to celebrate Sardinia in all its glory. Crisp, wafer-like pane carasau arrives unprompted to kick things off, with fluffy goat's curd and a blizzard of house-cured bottarga. It's a generous, gratis opener, perfect with a glass from an exceptional drinks offering packed with vini seldom found in Australia – layered, honey-scented granazza from Mamoiada, perhaps, or a full-bodied nasco di Cagliari? Wood-fired is the way here, from the hay-smoked butter on herby anchovy crostini through to the burnt mango lending depth to olive-oil cake with milk gelato. Request seats in the luxuriously rustic "camino" dining room to watch the open kitchen pump out crackling-topped suckling pig, nimbly charred octopus or fermented roast carrots with yoghurt and macadamia. Or be seduced by the picture windows, lime-washed terracotta floors and pale blue tones of the light-filled terrazza. No matter where you land, it's a vivid snapshot of sun-kissed island life.

ABOUT

Pilloni
Sardinian
166 Hardgrave Rd, West End
(07) 3846 2745
pilloni.com.au
Chef Craig Eyre
Price guide $
Bookings Recommended
Wheelchair access Yes
Open Lunch Sat-Sun; Dinner Wed-Sun
This review was written independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide's reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way. To learn more about the process, head over here.