REVIEW
Michael Ryan continues his journey of reinvention at his 14-year-old destination diner in gold rush country. The offering is now an exacting kaiseki of 18 compact dishes presented in four waves on individual trays adorned with fine ceramics. This is not a gluttonous dégustation, but an exercise in restraint and exceptional technique. Start with translucent slivers of kingfish sashimi, perhaps, or pungent house-made pickles, or a steaming pillow of mushroom tofu with umami-rich katsuobushi salt. Fried morsels are particularly memorable, including pumpkin tempura encased in a delicate wisp of golden batter; a finger of prawn toast drizzled in tonkatsu sauce and Kewpie mayo, or a doughnut-like ball of fried coconut-milk custard rolled in miso sugar. Ryan's own digestivi star on a punchy list of hyper-local wines, exceptional sake and Japanese whisky that warrants extensive exploration – and a one-night stay in one of the comfortable rooms out back.
ABOUT
Chef Michael Ryan
Price guide $$
Bookings Essential
Wheelchair access No
Open Dinner Fri-Mon
Price guide $$
Bookings Essential
Wheelchair access No
Open Dinner Fri-Mon
This review was written independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide's reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way. To learn more about the process, head over here.
