REVIEW
Even if you're well versed in Peter Gilmore's leitmotifs – marine life, umami depth, elusive ingredients, the tension between cream and crunch – his cooking at Quay always holds you in its thrall. Hand-dived scallops, each as sweet and soft as custard, make gripping counterparts for shaved abalone, raw palm hearts and liquorice kombu in a hypnotic soy and vinegar dressing. Unctuous black-pig salami draped over creamy shiitake chawanmushi could be its own dish, but layered over confit pork jowl and smoked trotter broth it all becomes a dissertation on intensity and richness. Micro-seasonal greengage plums bring their unmistakable tart-sweet taste to the otherworldly "White Coral" dessert, still as arresting as the peerless views. There's still room for surprises in amongst the fine-dining trappings, too, from the unaffected nature of the on-it service to the value woven into the exhaustive wine list. Here, too much of a good thing never seems to be enough.
ABOUT
Chefs Peter Gilmore, Troy Crisante & Tim Mifsud
Price guide $$$$
Bookings Essential
Wheelchair access Yes
Open Lunch Sat-Sun; Dinner Thu-Sun
Price guide $$$$
Bookings Essential
Wheelchair access Yes
Open Lunch Sat-Sun; Dinner Thu-Sun
This review was written independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide's reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way. To learn more about the process, head over here.
