Una Más: Restaurant review

Space may not be the strong suit at Una Más, but every inch of this often packed Catalonia-meets-Hamptons room is cleverly designed to ensure there isn't a dud seat in the house. (Just aim to face the vast arched windows with sweeping beach views.) The menu spotlights Spanish-accented hits from Gildas, patatas bravas and croquetas through to a Basque cheesecake that rules them all. Perhaps the biggest star is a dish of marinated octopus, licked by flames and tender as all get-out, served with a long-fermented habanero sauce. It's emblematic of the broader experience here – an exercise in simple, breezy and beautiful things done with abundant thought and care. That thinking extends to the wine list, too – a savvy, engaging one-pager of mostly natural drops from our own backyard and around the Med. While Mimi's, the elegant fine-diner across the hall, is undoubtedly excellent, this is the one that keeps you coming back.

Una Más
Coogee Pavilion, 130a Beach St, Coogee
(02) 9114 7383
[merivale.com/venues/una-mas]Chef Jordan Toft
Price guide $$
Bookings Recommended
Wheelchair access Yes